Squid Salad a la Frances
Date: 2011-11-17

Frances restaurant in San Francisco has a tasty, refreshing squid
salad. It appears light and casual but attention to details like the
thin slices of pepper reveal the skill in the kitchen.  Their
description:

  Grilled Local Calamari: Preserved Meyer Lemon, Fennel, Sweet Peppers

Frances uses local fresh squid which have thinner flesh than I can get
frozen; there's is tender with a snap when they cook it. Their peppers
were sweet with just a bit of heat, and there was some onion too. I
tried to approximate it and it came out well enough to repeat.

My Arugula was mature and feisty, a more tender leaf would be
better. The shallot I used was too pungent, use a mild onion instead,
or perhaps some scallions.  We're looking for just a wisp of spicy
heat here, not firey pepper and onion.

I approximated the West Coast Meyer Lemon with Lemon and sweet
Orange. Use what you have but you want a bit of bright tartness
balanced by a suggestion of sweetness.

1       pound   Squid, cleaned, tubes separated from tentacles, dry
        glug    Olive Oil, extra virgin, fruity, a little peppery
2       whole   Red Pointy Peppers, sweet/spicy, seeded, cut into thin rings
1       whole   Green Pointy Peppers, sweet/spicy, seeded, cut into thin rings
1       small   Onion, sliced very thin; or scallions, white part only
        wad     Arugula, preferably tender, tough stems removed
        bit     Cilantro, sliced or chiffonade
1       whole   Mandarin Orange, juiced
1/2     whole   Lemon, juiced

Slice the Onion very thin, soak in water to de-flame it.

Add the Arugula and Cilantro to a mixing bowl.

Drizzle oil in the pan, place the tubes and tentacles, cover with a
weighted lid to prevent curling, and heat low and gently. Sprinkle
with coarse salt, flip, and continue cooking slowly until tender. If
the Squid releases a lot of liquid, pour it off.

Cut the cooked Squid into rings and add to bowl of Arugula and
Cilantro.

Briefly cook the Pepper rings in the warm pan to soften just a bit and
heat up.

Drain the Onion and pat dry, add to the salad.

Add a glug of Olive Oil. You're looking for a dinner salad amount of
dressing here, between the Oil and Juice, but don't drown it, just
lightly moisten the greens.

Combine the Orange and Lemon juice, adjust for acidity -- it should be
bright with a bit of sweetness. Pour some over the salad and stir to
combine. Taste and add a bit more until it tastes bright but not
puckering or sweet; it's a subtle dish.

Toss to combine well and serve slightly warm.

Plain white plates show off the vibrant colors of the Arugula,
Peppers, and contrast of whiteness of the Squid.